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The two winemakers from the Hudson River Region that produced the best reviewed Chardonnay are very much in the forefront of transformation of the appellation towards an emerging quality winemaking region. Millbrook is one of the best know wineries in New York and is one of the few vinifera only vineyards in the Hudson River Region. Whitecliff is a family winery that drives to excellence. They exclusively produce estate bottlings growing all the grapes for the wines they make. Both are examples of what the region can be.
The Hudson River Region AVA is very much transforming from a mostly 19th century hybrid and native grape varietal based winemaking region to European style and elegant engineered hybrid based wines. As such, the amount of Hudson Valley Chardonnay is fairly limited. Although almost every winery in the region produces a Chardonnay offering most are made from grapes from either the North Fork of Long Island or from the Finger Lakes.
There is not a large enough of a sample to begin to make generalizations about the character or typical flavor profiles of Hudson River Region AVA Chardonnay terroir. However, the varietal seems to do well in the region as evinced by estate bottled wines available. Of the standouts, one notes that they are big reserve Chardonnays, ripe, full bodied, and full flavored, with distinct earth notes. Hopefully the neighboring wineries will take note of the success of local Hudson Valley estate Chardonnay and start growing their own grapes and producing their own estate bottlings.
Millbrook Vineyards and Winery
One of the most venerable wineries in the state Millbrook was founded by Robert Dyson in 1982. Dyson was commissioner of agriculture for New York when the Farm Winery Act of 1976 was passed and enacted. That act was a catalyst for the resurgence of New York as a major and growing wine making state. It helped foster the development of the trend towards making high quality wines based on European style grapes and high quality hybrids. This achievement, although laudable on its own, would not necessarily qualify Millbrook as maker of fine wines. Dyson saw the potential inherent in the legislation and the promise of New York as a producer of high quality wines. Millbrook Vineyards was the tangible expression of that vision.
Located outside of the town of Millbrook in Dutchess County, about ten miles east of the river, Millbrook is probably the best known winery from the Hudson River Region AVA. The winery has show again that it produces some of the best wines in the region.
Millbrook is one of the few vintners in the Hudson River Region to exclusively produce estate wines. Millbrook is also one of the very few wine growers to face the challenges of producing exclusively vinifera based wines. The visitor will not find a Vidal, Iona, Diamond, or even a Seyval Blanc in the vineyards.
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Whitecliff Vineyard
On the west side of the Hudson, Whitecliff Vineyard is about 15 miles from the river in Gardiner in Ulster County. The winery is situated in the shadow of the Shawangunk ridge which helps to focus maritime weather from the Atlantic and to offer some protection from the continental extremes to the west. Founded by Michael and Yancey Migliore in 1979, the vineyard was primarily experimental until about ten years ago when they became a licensed farm winery. Michael Migliore holds an advanced degree in organic chemistry and brings an attitude that science and research are critical to producing good wines. In such pursuit of improving their wines, the vineyards are planted in twenty-five different varietals. In an emerging winemaking region it is critical to experiment to continue to enhance the quality of the product. All of Whitecliff's wines are estate bottled making them a member of a very exclusive club in the Hudson Valley. Whitecliff was recognized previously, for their excellence and importance in the Hudson River Region.
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