The Hudson River Valley Wine Region
With its source in the Adirondacks at Lake Tear of the Clouds the Hudson River starts off as not much more than a humble creek. There is little indication that these mountain waters are destined to become one of the world's great river systems. From the of Mount Marcy, the
state's highest peak, the waters begin their journey, eventually to flow through one of New York's oldest wine growing regions. Indeed, the wine region would not be possible without the river. The Hudson's North-South orientation brings warming maritime weather from the Atlantic to temper the cooler, more continental climate that predominates as one travels away from the river.
The region has approximately 430 acres of grapes under cultivation making it the smallest of the state's appellations. It is also the coolest of the region's with the shortest grape growing season, approximately 180 days compared to 230 for the North Fork of Long Island. The appellation runs from about from the town of Port Chester in Westchester County to the northern border of Columbia County. It follows the northern Columbia border to the river, then following the river south to Ulster County. It is then off to the west for about fifteen miles and turns south through the mountains until it bumps into Orange County. The line then heads south west until Pennsylvania and back again to Connecticut. At last count there are thirty-three bonded wineries in the AVA. Most are small family farm establishments producing limited release artisanal wines. The two largest winemakers, Millbrook (12,000 cases) and Brotherhood (18,000 cases) are still tiny compared to California behemoths.
Hudson Valley Winemaking Trends
The Hudson Valley wine appellation is very much in the process of redefining itself. Not that long ago, the region grew almost exclusively native and early hybrid grape varietals. It was the land of the labrusca. Given the challenges of the growing conditions this was not surprising. The cool climate, harsh winters, and short growing season seemed to make the delicate European style wine grapes a huge gamble. The region is now starting the move away from labrusca and to produce more and more wines based on vinifera and elegant hybrids. The state of the industry in the Hudson Valley is not that different from the Finger Lakes in the seventies and eighties as they began this same process of converting to higher quality wine grape and production.
Agritourism is the bedrock of the business model for most of the Hudson River Valley's winemakers. They are dependent on their customers getting in a car for a tour of the wine trails. Most of the wineries interviewed sell the great majority of their wine from their tasting rooms. Few have been able to crack the New York City retail or restaurant markets, and most are not even trying. Given the proximity to New York City, agritourism is not necessarily a bad business model for the interim. It is still a common strategy, albeit to a lesser extent, in the more mature Finger Lakes and Long Island appellations. For the Hudson Valley AVA to become an emerging and, from there, maturing wine growing region winemakers will have to find ways to sell downstate especially, and nationally eventually. To be taken seriously Hudson Valley wines needs to become as common on wine lists at good New York City restaurants as are offerings from Bedel, Wolffer, Dr. Frank, Hermann Wiemer, or other recognized New York State winemakers.
There are wines being produced that are certainly as good as the best from the Hudson Valley's sister appellations but they are much fewer in number. Achieving viticultural esteem will require that the quality of production from the region as a whole needs to increase. It is unlikely that the region will become all vinifera like Long Island. The climatic challenges are too great to completely abandon the resilient hybrids. Work and continued success with vinifera is important to the acceptance of the reputation of the region's wines, however selection of elegant hybrids is also important. It is encouraging that in the hands of talented farmers and vintners some of these crosses are producing excellent wines. The Hudson Valley still has more work to do, however there are some very interesting winemakers making some very exciting wines which, given time and effort, seems to point to a bright future for the region.
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